‘Good morning my friend!’: My toddler was treated like royalty on our family holiday to Albania

“Good morning my friend! I’ve missed you!”

Manuel scoops up our son and enfolds him in a hug before delighting him with a chase through the restaurant. Finley’s squeals of laughter echo through the family-run hotel  in the tiny village of Qeparo where we’re staying on the Albanian Riviera. 

Easy access to white pebbled beaches, azure water and views of Greece make this a relaxing spot to enjoy delicious locally sourced Albanian cuisine. But the food and landscape are not the only reasons my husband and I have fallen in love with this country. 

Our two-year-old son is welcomed everywhere we go. His presence is expected and celebrated as opposed to just being tolerated, as we experienced when we travelled with him as a six-month-old.

Our three-week family holiday included UNESCO World Heritage Sites, Butrint National Park, the world-class hiking trail between Theth and Valbona, and the thermal springs and fascinating history of Permet in the Vjosë River Valley.

Albania’s family-friendly atmosphere is evident as soon as we arrive in the Balkan country, immediately making our way north.

Instead of the sun, sea and sand that most tourists are here for, we embrace the scent of rain and heavy rumble of thunder that cuts through the moody clouds crowding the tiny hamlet of Theth.

A 16km hike over the famous Valbona Pass awaits us the next day. Said to be one of the world’s best hikes, we can’t wait to lace up our boots and hit the trail.

We dash from the taxi into the welcoming arms of a family-run guesthouse where local children inspect Finley curiously before taking him outside to meet a lively black and white puppy. 

We sip Korca beer and watch our son play happily while we meet other hikers who have now arrived, wet and exhausted,