Why Europe's 'least religious country' is among the best at Christmas

Miloslav isn’t having much luck. A fundraiser for a Christian charity, he’s left kicking at the snowy ground as people evade his attempts to strike up a conversation near a Christmas market in Olomouc, a city in eastern Czech Republic. 

“Many people don’t want to stop to talk about Jesus Christ; they prefer to drink punč at the market,” he says, referring to the liquored mulled wine that’s the main tipple at this time of year. “But more people are a little more willing to talk around Christmas time.”

Only around a third of Czechs believe in God, the lowest rate in Europe, yet their Christmases remain wrapped up in religious traditions. 

“It may sound a bit strange but despite the low religiosity level, Christmas is the most important holiday for Czechs. But they see it much more as a family and traditional holiday. The religious meaning is tucked away in the back,” says David Václavík, associate professor at Masaryk University’s Department for the Study of Religions.

Children still write wish lists to the Baby Christ (or “Ježíšek”) who delivers Christmas presents each year, rather than a Westernised Santa Claus. The traditional carols and songs still sung are religion-laden. On 5 December, most towns will find people dressed up as St. Nicholas (Mikuláš), who, accompanied by a costumed angel and devil, deliver either a treat or punishment to children depending on their behaviour that year.

Life-size nativity scenes aren’t uncommon in main squares, although, Václavík says, “ten or fifteen years ago…I had to explain the individual figures in the Christmas nativity scene”. Newspapers are festooned with features on the Christmas traditions of yesteryear and interviews with priests. Carp and potato salad, a traditional Christmas