In the muddy woodlands of a Baltic island, Sweden’s soldiers are getting ready for Russian attack

Wet snow turns into drizzling rain. Thanks to some diplomatic backing and the security clearance of the German and French embassies in Stockholm, I got finally authorization from the Swedish armed forces headquarters to enter the military facility on Gotland, a strategically important island in the middle of the Baltic Sea. Crouching down into the muddy soil I try best as I can to catch the tense faces of the young soldiers deployed across the coniferous woodland, passing a hidden tank, pausing behind some rocks for a few seconds, then silently moving further towards a trench that separates a small ridge from a large open meadow. It’s like a choreographed war-ballet, every single fighter fitting smoothly into the well-trained mechanism of their squad. Suddenly some dark silhouettes appear in the grassland ahead. Squad leader Benjamin commands: “Open Fire!”

Happily enough, I’ve got some good earplugs, the recruits are using live ammunition for today’s training. All-day long professional soldiers, newcomers and conscripts are mingling in small groups across the huge forest area. It’s about knowledge transfer. About learning how to handle bad surprises. And about how to beat off hostile paratroopers trying to conquer an airfield.

After the end of the Cold War, Sweden demilitarized the island. A somewhat naïve belief prevailed that eternal peace had broken out. Then Russia occupied Crimea, in 2014. The Swedish government reassessed Gotland’s vulnerability – and stationed several hundred soldiers here. Now, with Putin’s war in Ukraine, Sweden has accelerated its re-armament. Gotland regiment commander Magnus Frykvall has a few precious minutes to spend on a short interview.

“What’s on your wish list?”, I want to know, and: “Are