Hanoi’s French Quarter is an oasis of laid-back luxury in the chaotic capital

Hanoi’s Old Quarter is a tumult of traffic, trade and tourism. Travellers choose to stay in the Vietnamese capital’s historic neighbourhood to dive into its idiosyncratic brew of swerving motorbikes, roadside food joints and cacophonous soundtrack.

But while the clogged roads are an essential characteristic of the Old Quarter - hotels often supply guests with advice on how to cross them - increasing tourism is straining the capacity of its narrow streets.

Until recently, tour buses would squeeze through the maze to collect daytrippers from hotels causing traffic blockages. These have now been banned, but taxis and Grab (Southeast Asia’s Uber) cars still clog the streets.

For travellers who would rather dip in and out of the chaos, the nearby French Quarter is an ideal base. With wide boulevards, a lake and elegant hotels, it provides a little more breathing space while being just a short walk from the Old Quarter.

It is also a fascinating glimpse into the French influences brought by colonialism but later fused with Hanoi’s culture to become something unique.

It is impossible to escape the buzz of scooters and the chorus of horns in Hanoi, but Hoàn Kiếm Lake on the edge of the French Quarter is a kind of oasis. Walking along the shore, you look out across the green water to the mossy Turtle Tower - the reptiles once lived in the surrounding waters - on an island in the centre.

At the northern end is Ngoc Son Temple. Dedicated to writing, study and literature, it is a key place of worship for students preparing for exams. A bright red bridge leads to a little island where the blare of the traffic becomes a distant hum inside the temple walls.

It is lovely to sit in the tree-fringed courtyard watching a cat stroll by and