From salmon to sake: Savouring sustainable gastronomy in Japan’s Niigata Prefecture

Known as a culinary hotspot in Japan, Niigata Prefecture is blessed with fertile land, crystal clear water and a varied climate – all of which contribute to its exceptional local products.

This food-lovers’ paradise tends to fly under the radar for international travellers, but Niigata has much to offer adventurous foodies, through its richly varied food and drink culture. 

In this new episode of Explore, we take a gourmet journey across Niigata to learn about the region’s sustainable gastronomy through two of its most famous products – salmon and sake.

Here’s a guide on how you, too, can take advantage of Niigata’s local experiences – while supporting the region’s recovery from the 2024 Noto Earthquake.

Located where the Miomote and Okawa Rivers meet the Sea of Japan, Murakami City is a popular spot for spawning salmon.

Every autumn, the waterways become busy highways for hundreds of fish swimming upriver to lay their eggs. As the fish return, so do the fishermen, and you can witness the excitement yourself on Murakami’s riverbanks.

The most popular fishing technique in Murakami is also the oldest – fishermen use a homemade staff with a hook on the end, called kagi. 

Because there’s no live bait to lure the fish, the fishermen have to get crafty. They set up wooden platforms and traps called kodo and camouflage them with cypress saplings and ferns.

The salmon eggs are saved, to be artificially inseminated and hatched in spring. Murakami City is said to be the first place in the world to propagate salmon in this way, back in the 18th century when it was a samurai castle town.

Today, it’s still known as “Salmon City” – and strolling around the city’s picturesque streets, it’s obvious that salmon is central to Murakami’s identity.