The £45.50 all-you-can-eat menu with a slightly stressful time limit

Things that should be done on the clock include the 100m, the 200m, the 400m, the 800m, the 1500m… you get the idea with that. Things that should not be done under the pressure of a stopwatch include having dinner.

That’s why the whole ‘bottomless brunch’ business has never held much appeal. Having someone time me eating? It’s bad enough when you’re told your table is needed back in two hours.

All this concerns me before I re-enter in SakkuSamba, the Brazilian-Japanese (yep) fusion restaurant which opened on Bridge Street last summer. I was there on opening night. Immediately behind the table was a gentleman in a studded gold lamé catsuit on a raised runway, vigorously gyrating and high kicking. He was almost in your dinner.

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It was not what you might have called relaxing, but I appreciated his enthusiasm greatly and still watch the video I took sometimes, just to give me a lift.

“It’s bougie in here,” my daughter says, and it really is. You’re bathed in a hot pink glow like a neon sunbed from the moment you walk up the stairs to the moment you leave, and the ceiling is covered completely with faux cherry blossom. Some things are clad in plastic foliage, presumably representing the majestic rain forests of the Amazon basin.

As a 12-year-old, she slips in under the wire of SakkuSamba’s all-you-can-eat pricing structure, paying £17.95. Adults pay a more robust £45.50 (and that’s without any drinks), but they’ve not seen her put sushi