Medieval hot tubs and fortune tellers: Esslingen’s Christmas market is more than gifts and glühwein

In a children’s book I have yet to write, Father Christmas flies his drone over Germany’s Christmas markets, hell-bent on finding the most magical for a romantic weekend break with Mrs Christmas. 

Nuremberg? “Hmm, quite crowded,” thinks Father Christmas. Berlin? “Yowsers, so big!” he eliminates, thinking of his feet. On the verge of calling it a day, he decides to set the drone to one last mission. And there it is… a vision of cobblestone streets and magnificent timber-framed townhouses floodlit by firelight. “Aaaah…” sighs Father Christmas, before punching the air victoriously. “Esslingen. Bingo!”

Unlike many of Europe’s festive events – so often characterised by Mariah on a loop – there’s something special about medieval Esslingen, just 15km from Stuttgart in south-west Germany. It’s transporting me back to a simpler time of rousing folk music, agile acrobats, and exotic spice in the air.

Experiential rather than purely commercial, Esslingen Christmas market is in fact two markets rolled into one. Alongside a traditional market with all the festive gifts and foods you’d expect, there’s also a medieval market, where every spellbinding detail recalls life 600 years ago.

I can see fire-lit stages for minstrels, musicians and storytellers. A juggler mischievously named ‘Master Fleapit’. A performer on stilts meeting and greeting the crowd.

And that’s not all. I’m watching old-school craftsmen at work – from blacksmiths, basket makers and bakers, to potters, glassblowers and weavers – many inviting passers-by to have a go.

On one standout evening that promises to be captivating, there’s even going to be a lantern parade on 19 December from the marketplace up the hill to the castle which overlooks town.

For now, my personal