Fusing old and New: Tradition meets modernity in China’s “Venice of the East”

Once the bureaucratic heart of imperial China, the ancient city of Suzhou has captivated visitors for centuries. 

Famed for its fine silk tapestries, classical gardens and picturesque canals the city has earned the nickname the “Venice of the East” and is often seen as the perfect getaway from the hustle and bustle of its much bigger neighbour Shanghai.

Joining forces for the first time, Crossing Cultures presenters Paul and Yegor visited the city to experience its culinary delights.

Suzhou is located around 100 kilometres west of Shanghai on the shores of Lake Taihu in Jiangsu Province, one of China’s largest freshwater lakes.

This has played a huge role in shaping the city’s identity, an influence that extends to the local Subang cuisine, with fish often taking centre stage.

Among Suzhou’s most iconic dishes is squirrel-shaped Mandarin fish. Believed to have first been served to Emperor Qianlong over 400 years ago, preparation involves intricate carving of the fish. It is then fried and topped with a sweet tomato-based sauce.

But what does a squirrel have to do with a fish?

Chef Zhu Rongjin, head chef at Deyuelou restaurant and a master of Subang cuisine, shared with Paul the story behind the dish: “The whole mandarin fish is shaped like a squirrel, with its head raised high and tail curled up. When hot sauce is poured over it, it makes a squeaking sound, like a squirrel. In our culture, squirrels are symbols of good fortune.”

Revealing the secret to the dish’s delicious texture, Chef Zhu added: “The outer layer is incredibly crispy, giving it a satisfying crunch. When we coated the fish in flour earlier, it helped seal in the juices, keeping the meat tender and flavourful.”

While Suzhou is renowned for its historic waterways