'Everything's delicious - but why's the music so loud?': District on Oldham Street reviewed

You might have noticed District on Oldham Street, particularly at night. It’s post-industrial, stylish and minimal, clad in white tile and illuminated in UV like it’s been pulled from a scene in Blade Runner.

This is very much the intention.

When I’m emailed my booking confirmation, I’m instructed that ‘Gate 60 is now open in Sector #BKK ready for your arrival. Please turn all plasma power sources to "DOCK" mode on your instrument panel upon entering’.

READ MORE: 'I used the Law of Attraction to get my Premier League footballer husband'

Though I don’t do any of this, I’m still permitted entry, which is a relief, but yes, there’s a clear concept at work here.

Chef patron Ben Humphreys is a serious talent. His ‘new wave thai kitchen’, as District is self-described, recently got the sober nod of approval from Michelin, and is now included in its hallowed guide, putting it on a par with some of the very best restaurants in the city.

That’s pretty inspiring given it’s been in business for less than two years, and opened in the middle of a pandemic. Bravo.

Possibly influenced by the fiery flavours - and actual fire - seen at the likes of the Smoking Goat in London’s Shoreditch and its sister restaurant Kiln in Soho, most dishes are finished over the great, raging furnace of a barbeque, where racks hang and meat rests.

It makes for a striking focus for the space, bringing natural elements to bear against the austerity of the white tile and chic, black wire chairs.

And everything we ate was delicious. The Discovery menu weighs in at £50 per head (there is a £100 option too for those with deeper pockets, and also a brilliant value £20 development menu served at lunchtime), and is excellently paced over 10 courses, though some