Crossing Cultures: How silk shaped the fortunes of China and Europe

The cities of Suzhou in eastern China and Lyon in southeastern France are two of the world's most renowned silk centres. In this episode of Crossing Cultures, we explore the ancient ties that bind both China and Europe and learn from the artisans keeping the craft of silk weaving alive.

For nearly five thousand years, the city of Suzhou has been synonymous with China's silk industry. Known as the Venice of the East, grand canals and gardens are a lasting reminder of the wealth the city amassed through its trade with the rest of the world.

One of Suzhou's most precious crafts is Kesi. This unique silk-weaving method - with its distinct warp and weft technique - has been prized for millennia. As the saying goes, ‘An inch of Kesi, an inch of gold.' 

Kesi tapestries are valued for their craftsmanship and sophistication.

“Technically, [the hardest part is] the transition colours in the mosaic artwork. If you look closely there are lots of combined colours. The more colours there are, the longer it takes,” revealed silk-weaving master, Ma Huijuan.

A key characteristic of Kesi tapestry involves threading through while cutting across. First, the weaver uses natural silk threads to create a grid. They then interweave coloured threads through this before cutting at transition points to leave star-like marks.

“[Kesi] has infinite varieties," Ma Huijuan told Crossing Cultures. "The number of yarns and colours you use is up to you."

The complexity of such a process means machines will never likely be able to replace the experienced masters of this craft.

In many ways, Kesi challenges our modern fast-paced society. A single tapestry can take years. It’s a labour of love which rarely reaps quick rewards. Over time though, its true value and