Meet the American who spread global gospel of surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, Hawaii’s original Big Kahuna

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Duke Kahanamoku was a real-life American aquaman. 

"The Father of Surfing" rode the pipeline of popularity he achieved as an Olympic champion to become the soft-spoken savior of Hawaiian heritage foretold in a king’s deathbed prophecy.

"The ocean is my temple, the waves my prayers," Kahanamoku reportedly said, one of many quotes that have helped give surfing its spirit of oneness with the water. 

"Every wave is a chance to be reborn."

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He is, among other things, the original "Big Kahuna" – American slang of Hawaiian origin for a dominant personality. 

Kahanamoku’s legendary exploits began splashing through Hawaii’s aquamarine surf at record-setting speed, powered only by muscular arms and legs. 

Hawaiian swimming stars Duke Kahanamoku, left, and his younger brother, Sam, at a break during the tryouts at the Olympic Pool in Long Beach, California, for the 1924 Summer Olympics.  (Underwood Archives/Getty Images)

He won five Olympic medals – three of them gold – representing the United States before Hawaii was one of them. 

The Big Kahuna grew into an international icon in between the Olympics, skimming the surf on his 16-foot, 114-pound, natural-wood longboard with awe-inspiring dexterity. 

"To us, he’s the king of surfing."

Surfing became an Olympic sport for the first time in 2020. 

It returns to the Paris games this week. Surfers around the world recognize Duke as royalty. 

"To us, he’s the king of surfing," Kelly Slater, 11-time World Surf League champion, said in the 2022 PBS documentary "Waterman – Duke: Ambassador of Aloha."

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